Mini Mal
Being hit in the face very 10 seconds with a mountain of water can be very exhilarating even fun. It can also be a real pain. After while it starts to feel like you’re are in boxing match with some watery Poseidon. If one is determined one can battle past the white water and if you are lucky and the force is with you one can catch a wave. But staying on it; that is another matter entirely. But I caught a few.
We had a bit of drama; my friend got caught in a rip tide and was being dragged towards the rocks the life guard swung into action blowing his whistle and warning us to the danger. But we lived to tell the tale. Surfing is such a rush.
