Surfing can be quite masochistic; there can be quite a lot of injuries in the pursuit of high velocity liquid thrills. Generally its not too bad, you fall, and it is into water. The problems come when the waves get bigger than one can handle. Then one gets wiped out big style, washing machine style and fashion. Rolled over and over until completely disoriented. It is here where the bad injuries generally occur. I nose dived off my long board the other day wrenching my shoulder horribly. Ouch!
Swash & Backwash
So sometimes one waits, slacking off, for the waves to come. Other times the waves are too big, or there is too much swash or backwash, (Swash is the white water caused by the incoming wave, Backwash is the white water caused by the outgoing wave),
or the rip currents are too strong. Of course on can surf in these conditions but you got to know what you are doing and the sea shows no mercy. Surfers love weather reports, slacking off and surfing when conditions are most favourable. But some are just mad and will surf anytime.
Slacking Off
Me, I am a fair weather surfer. If the sun is shining and the waves are good then I feel the pull. But that is generally a big ask in the UK, so I revert back to slacking off and waiting for the waves that are just right.
Johnny from Tris Surf Shop @ Porthtowan said to me the other day “You got to pick your moments, watch wait, patiently, observe the waves”
Surfing can be hard work or down right easy. I choose the easy cool path, the glorious radiant shining path of least resistance where I achieve without trying and acceptance enlightens.
Music for liberating the American People
